- Cleaning Tips: Spot and Stain Removal Guide
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Spills and stains should be treated immediately. The longer a spot remains, the more difficult it will be to remove. Remove solid materials with a rounded tablespoon, or metal spatula. Blot up spills with clean, white, absorbent towel. Work from the outer edge of the spot towards the center to prevent rings. Keep blotting, and repeat as necessary until stain has lifted.
*NOTE: ALWAYS PRETEST SPOT-REMOVAL AGENTS in an inconspicuous area by applying several drops of solution and blotting gently with a clean white towel (like under a sofa cushion or behind a piece of furniture). If color transfers to the cloth or a color change occurs, a professional cleaner should be consulted. If no color transfer occurs, apply the solution again, wait half an hour to an hour, if possible, and inspect for any damaging color changes.
Treat the stained area with the proper spotting solution until the stain is removed. Do not over saturate. Use small amounts of the cleaning agents and blot frequently. The final step is always to rinse carefully the area with water, and then absorb all the remaining moisture with absorbent towels.
BE PATIENT. Some stains respond slowly. All spots and stains cannot be removed from every fabric due to differences in fibers, dyes, constructions, finishes, composition of the stain, length of time the stain has remained on the article, etc. Some stains require professional treatment, if that is the case call Cleanrite-Buildrite: 1-800-870-0030 or contact us online - Click Here
Items you will need for your emergency kit are listed below.
IMPORTANT: Always be sure and follow the pretest procedures before applying any solution to a spot or stain.
ALCOHOL: Use neutral spirits grain alcohol or clear (uncolored) rubbing alcohol. Methanol, ethanol, and isopropanol are appropriate alcohols to use.
AMMONIA SOLUTION: Mix one tablespoon of clear household ammonia with one-half cup of water.
BLEACH: Use hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate, present in Snowy or Clorox II. Do not use chlorine bleach.
DETERGENT SOLUTION: Mix one teaspoonful of a colorless, mild detergent or dishwashing liquid in a cup of lukewarm water.
DRY-CLEANING SOLVENT: Volatile dry spotter or a commercial spotter such as Carbona, Energine, K2R. Use in small amounts - can be harmful to sizing, backing or stuffing materials. Do not use gasoline, lighter fluid or carbon tetrachloride.
ENZYME DETERGENT: Mix a solution of enzyme detergent following the directions on the label. Do not soak or overwet. Allow the solution to remain on the stain for the recommended length of time before removing. (Professional cleaners may prefer to use digestors separate from detergents.)
P.O.G.: Paint, oil and grease remover, available in hardware stores.
VINEGAR SOLUTION: Mix one-third cup of white household vinegar with two-thirds cup of water. (Professional cleaners may use up to 28% acetic acid solution.)
In the United States water damage accounts for hundreds of millions of dollars of homeowner property damage every year.
In the event of water damage, do the following:
- Stay calm! Call Cleanrite-Buildrite right away: 1-800-870-0030.
- Make sure the water source is turned off. This will help contain the damage.
- Turn off the breaker in the damaged area before you unplug or remove any electrical devices located on the wet carpet.
- Place aluminum foil under the legs of any furniture which is in contact with wet carpet. This might help prevent furniture stains on your carpet.
- Lift draperies away from wet carpet.
- Loosely tie up upholstered furniture skirts which may get wet.
- Remove books, shoes, paper goods, fabrics, potted plants, and other items which may be stained or stain wet carpet.
Do not attempt the following:
- Don’t use your home vacuum, since electrical shock may result, as well as certain damage to the equipment itself.
- Don’t place newspaper in traffic areas to walk on, since newspaper ink transfers easily to the wet carpet fibers and may result in permanent staining.
- Don’t walk on carpet any more than necessary. This will keep the damage from spreading to unaffected areas.
Water damage in the home is one of the biggest problems facing homeowners. In the United States water damage accounts for hundreds of millions of dollars of homeowner property damage every year. Sadly, it seems that very few homeowners understand the link between water damage to their home today and a mold contamination down the road. Understanding how the one leads to the other can save you thousands in repair costs and prevent your family from being exposed to potentially dangerous toxic mold spores.
The 3 Things Mold Needs
Mold spores are everywhere in our environment and, like seeds, wait patiently for the proper conditions to grow. It is very easy for mold to gain a foothold in your home, since our living spaces offer many of the elements mold needs. First of all, mold requires a source of food. It likes to feast on porous materials like carpeting, sheetrock, ceiling tile and cloth. In essence every home in America offers a veritable smorgasbord for mold, as the very building materials are a prime feeding ground. Secondly mold needs an environment with a stable, comfortable temperature. Different molds grow at different temperatures, but unfortunately the temperature range that molds prefer is also the comfortable temperature range for human habitation. This means that our homes are perfectly suited to contamination if mold can get the final thing it needs- water. Mold doesn't require a great deal of water to grow- it can thrive in only 40% to 60% relative humidity. A bathtub overflow, a leaky window or a damaged washing machine hose can be more than enough to spur a full-scale mold contamination. If not treated promptly, water damage in the home can create an ideal environment for mold to live in and live well.
Fast Action Can Save You a Bundle
The EPA maintains that to prevent mold growth it is crucial to completely dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours. This means that the battle with mold can be won or lost within 2 days of the water damage. Such a small window of opportunity is all mold requires as it usually begins to grow the moment the conditions are right. What's more, mold damages what it grows on. The longer it's allowed to grow, the more damage it will do to your home and property as it slowly breaks down the food source it is growing on. Promptly calling in a professional to dry the water damage is the best course of action; accredited water damage professional will have the equipment and knowledge to fully dry the affected areas within the 24 to 48 hour time frame. The one-time cost for water damage repairs far outweighs the possibility of a major mold contamination that can cost in the tens of thousands of dollars to remediate.
In the event of water damage in your home, selecting a capable, knowledgeable contractor to handle the drying process is easy enough. Just look for accreditation with ASCR, the Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration, or the IICRC, the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification. Both agencies certify contractors in the most up-to-date drying and mold-prevention techniques available. Preferably you will find a contractor with both affiliations, like Cleanrite-Buildrite.
- Check all gutters and make sure they're clean. You may want to consider a gutter guard or leaf covers. This will help keep ice from building up inside the gutter. The extra weight can tear them down.
- Make sure your gutters are securely fastened.
- If you have a flat roof with roof drains, make sure the drains are functioning.
- Check the mortar and brick on your chimneys and call a mason to make any repairs.
- Check all flashings. Flashings are the metal pieces used to waterproof interruptions in the roof plane such as pipes, chimneys, skylights, etc. If you suspect a deficiency and are unsure about how to fix it, call a roofing contractor. Snow leaks can wreak havoc on a house's interior during the winter - spending a nickel now and save a dime later, as the adage says.
- Check all areas of caulking. Touch up any suspected deficiencies.
- Don't use a snow-blower on your roof. Snow blowers are dangerous and can also tear up the roof.
- If you get up on the roof to remove snow with a shovel or similar tool, be careful that you don't damage the roofing materials.
- NEVER use an ice pick to remove ice build up.
- Maintain your roof: The failure to find and correct minor roof deterioration in the earliest stages is probably the greatest cause of premature roof problems. This is particularly true of roofing materials applied on relatively low-sloped roofs.
- Weathering: All roofing materials deteriorate from exposure to the weather at rates determined largely by the kind of material and the conditions of exposure. All types of roofing materials may be damaged by hail. Exposure to air pollutants and industrial or salt-laden atmospheres may accelerate the deterioration process of some roofing material.
- Roofing materials are subject to damage from strong winds and flying debris. Generally, roofs are not designed to withstand winds of hurricane and tornado intensity. However, roofs may also be damaged by winds of moderate intensity, with gust that may reach 50-75 miles per hour.
- Stay away from any sagging or wet ceiling.
- Call Cleanrite-Buildrite for services – 1-800-870-0030
- Protect the interior: Control the spread of water by collecting the water into containers or by using plastic sheeting to protect building contents, if it is safe to proceed.
- Remove excess water from the roof: Providing weather is accommodating, check roof drains to be certain they are open and functional. A frequent cause of roof leakage and roof collapse is excessive pooling on the roof surface due to clogged drains. Caution should be exercised when clearing debris from drains. Significant suction can be created by draining water, which can suck tools, hands or arms placed within these vortices quickly into the drain.
- Locate the source of the leak: In attempting to determine the source of a leak, locate the point on the roof surface above the area of leakage in the building interior. Do not attempt to repair in poor weather conditions.
Frozen pipes are a nightmare for homeowners and a dream come true for repair plumbers every winter. However, a few simple precautions can help you eliminate the chilly drafts that freeze pipes, letting you relax this winter.
Pipes freeze because of large “convective” or air current losses of heat. Therefore pipes within northern exposure walls where there is more wind are at greater risk. The all-purpose do-it-yourself protective material is three and a half inch thick foil-faced fiberglass blanket insulation. A roll costs approximately $15, and with some duct tape you are ready to protect your pipes from freezing this winter. Bear in mind that this is preventive work and must be done before the bitter cold weather sets in.
- Make sure your outdoor water faucets have been drained. Turn the faucet on. If water flows, you will have to go inside, locate the shut-off valve, and close it. Go back outside and open the faucet again. If the water between the inside valve and the outside faucet does not run out, you will have to go back inside and open the little knurled knob on the inside valve body to release the vacuum. “Frost free” faucets do not require draining since the valve stems extend straight back through the wall and close off the water inside the house where it will not freeze. Shut-off drain valves for outside faucets fed through garage spaces can typically be found inside the garage. This leaves the supply portion of the pipe inside the garage vulnerable to freezing. Have a shut-off drain valve installed inside the heated portion of the house.
- Water meters located in shallow pits at curbside often freeze because they are not below the frost line. If this happens, all water leading to the house will be cut off. Coordinate insulating the meter pit with a reading of the meter by the water company, since they have a special wrench that is necessary to remove the pit cover. Wrap the meter and stuff the pit with the three and a half inch foil-faced fiberglass with the foil facing outward.
- Survey the supply pipes in crawlspaces and basements, looking specifically for pipes in drafts. Supply pipes that run along the top of foundation walls are likely to freeze due to drafts that seep in under the sill plate (the wood piece bolted to the foundation and supporting the floor joists). To protect them, stuff fiberglass insulation behind the pipes and under the sill plate and foundation, or tape over it with duct tape. Pipes passing close by poorly fitted basement windows are equally as vulnerable, so tape around the window sash edges or staple plastic sheeting over the frame.
- Wrap vulnerable pipes with insulation. Cut the three and a half inch thick rolls into four-inch wide strips and lay the strips along the pipes with the foil facing outward. Fold the strips around the pipe, overlap the edges and tape securely with duct tape. Studies have shown that this method is as effective as any commercially available pipe wrap, but is much cheaper and far easier to use.
- Next, survey along the upper perimeter of the foundation walls and look for pipes that run up exterior walls; these are drafty areas and are particularly vulnerable if the wall is uninsulated or faces north. Shove insulation behind these pipes if you can.
- Double check additions where plumbing pipes run underneath and carefully survey around new vents added to dry out a damp crawlspace.
- Recently insulated crawlspace flooring can allow pipes to freeze by cutting off the heat that previously protected them. Play it safe by insulating all crawlspace supply pipes. As an added measure, wrap up drain line traps as well. The drain lines of slow draining fixtures should be wrapped as they are much more vulnerable to freezing in winter.
- Open the cabinet doors beneath your kitchen sink and see if the hot and cold supply pipes come through the wall or floor. Pipes coming through outside walls are vulnerable to freezing and will require protection. You can provide a small measure of protection by allowing the taps to drip overnight and by leaving the cabinet doors open so the kitchen heat can reach the wall. A truly thorough job requires breaking into the wall and wrapping the pipes within. Check laundry tubs and washing machines located on exterior walls to be sure that heat is available. Baths above unheated garages are at risk, particularly if they are located near drafty doors. Weatherstrip the garage door and have a contractor blow insulation into the floor cavity. Baths built within projections that extend beyond the foundation or lower wall, such as in a bay or dormer, have vulnerable floor pipes. Open the floor, wrap the pipes individually and insulate the flooring with six inch foil-faced blanket insulation.
- There is often a wide cavity wall between baths that back up to each other beneath attics. The cavity is called a chase and is used to house the servicing pipes. It is common for insulation above the chase to fall into the cavity, leaving the pipes exposed to cold drafts from overhead. Seal off the top of the chase by stuffing in blankets of fiberglass insulation. Overlay the stuffing with regular attic insulation.
- Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning
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- Pet Odor Treatments
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- RVs, Trucks, Autos & Boats
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